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Diyarbakır, April, 2025…
Located in the southeastern province of Diyarbakır and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Hevsel Gardens have been the site of uninterrupted agriculture for 8,000 years. The wild herbs growing naturally there are transformed into a culinary feast in the rich Diyarbakır cuisine.
Fed by the Tigris River and considered the “lungs” of the city, the Hevsel Gardens produce not only cultivated crops but also a variety of wild herbs in springtime, including heliz, wild garlic, sirim, gulik, tort, mallow, mustard greens, sorrel, nettle, yarpuz (a type of mint), kenger (a type of thistle) and çiriş.
To preserve and pass on traditional recipes from the city’s heritage cuisine, instructors and trainees from the Food and Beverage Services Department of the Yenişehir Public Education Center visit the Hevsel Gardens to harvest these wild plants.
The herbs collected by women are used in traditional dishes such as mastava, a yogurt-based soup with rice, bulgur, eggs, wheat flour, herbs and grape molasses, along with whole wheat bread made with nettle, borani prepared with spinach and other ingredients, sarma, mücver made with zucchini, fresh herbs and local cheese and gırık, a dish made with meat or chicken, onions and herbs.
Instructor Derya Akdağ Aykaç told the state-run Anadolu Agency that each herb gathered from the Hevsel Gardens is a natural remedy and that they are delighted to incorporate them into their meals.
She noted the importance of properly identifying these plants, saying, “Some herbs may seem beneficial, but if harvested or processed incorrectly, they can be harmful. Poisonous types or thorny structures require caution. For example, yılan otu [snake herb] cannot be consumed without first being soaked in yogurt. Every plant has its own specific harvesting and preparation method, which must be respected,” she said.
Aykaç noted that sirim and mallow are among the most commonly found herbs in the gardens and that they use a variety of cooking methods to turn these into delicious meals.
“The Hevsel Gardens are a real feast of flavours for us. We spend time in nature, collect these healing herbs and bring the colors of spring to our tables. These endemic plants each have unique aromas that enrich our meals. We strive to support the younger generation, especially in terms of healthy eating. With the arrival of spring, our tables become a festival of colour. We revive the beloved dishes of our elders, prepare them together with our students, and give them the chance to share them with their families. The plants grown in the fertile soil of the Hevsel Gardens offer many health benefits. Yarpuz, for example, is rich in vitamin C, while kenger is beneficial for dental and digestive health. Every part of the plant — from the root to the stem to the seed — contains distinct advantages,” she said.
Some 25 dishes from 10 herbs…
Aykaç stated that these works are helping revive nearly forgotten traditional recipes and that they can create approximately 25 distinct dishes using just 10 different herbs.
“We combine the herbs with eggs, bulgur and flour. By blending these wild herbs with other agricultural products, we create dishes that offer a variety of flavours and presentations. This brings diversity and health to our tables,” she said.
Trainee Dilan Özgan said that they use the herbs they gather to prepare dishes both at home and at the training center.
“Bulgur pilaf made with gulik herb is incredibly tasty. There are other herbs too and their dishes are also delicious. We make fried mallow with eggs, use purslane as a meze, and also cook it into a sour soup. Kenger is used both for frying and for making meftune,” she said, adding that these flavors were on the verge of being forgotten and that they are working to bring them back.
Özgan also pointed out that they are careful to avoid toxic herbs. “Some herbs are wild and poisonous. We pick them out and discard them. We especially select the fresh, bright green ones to use in our dishes,” she said.
Another trainee, Songül Çolak, stressed the deep-rooted culinary history of Diyarbakır. “Our dishes made with herbs harvested from the Hevsel Gardens in spring are especially delicious. We learned them from our elders. The Hevsel Gardens are now under protection and provide locals with many blessings, products and agricultural goods. Dishes prepared with these herbs are often the highlight at weddings and when special guests visit. Diyarbakır is mostly known for its ciğer [liver] dishes, but we have many more amazing flavors. As local women, we want to promote these dishes and help preserve this cultural heritage.”
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